Perfect for your Big Day

Varanasi, the holy city renowned for its temples and ghats, is also the birthplace of an ancient textile craft that pins India on the global map. Originally home to cotton weaving, which later transmuted to silk weaving during the Mughal era, Banarasi has enjoyed a place of eminence among handloom crafts since time immemorial. Unfazed by its downfall that came with the advent of power loom, the craft today leads the handwoven textile renaissance, with celebrities flaunting Banarasi sarees at international red-carpet events and fashion shows and designers embracing the textile in every manner possible. In its classic and contemporary avatars, Banarasi finds renewed interest among brides who turn to sarees for the big event in their lives. From resplendent zari work to the more nuanced self-designs, and pops of gemstone hues scattered against fine metallic colours, the techniques inherent to the Banarasi repertoire present the Indian bride with an array of options for her wedding and trousseau selection.

Kadwa

The appeal of a Kadwa Banarasi saree lies in its intricate workmanship. Unlike Phekwa, the typical Banarasi weaving style that leaves floats of supplementary yarns on the reverse side of the fabric, Kadwa employs discontinuous wefting to incorporate each motif or pattern separately into the weave structure for a neat, finished appearance. The technique is also referred to as Kadhua, an abbreviation of 'Khada Hua', which describes the sturdy, relief-like appearance of the designs woven in this style. A time-consuming and labour-intensive process, Kadwa is seldom confined by complexities of motif or pattern sizes, colours, and textures, and cannot be replicated on a power loom - qualities that add to the exclusivity of this handwoven fabric as a choice for bridal wear.

Notable among Kadwa Banarasi sarees is the Jangla, an all-over Jaal pattern woven using the discontinuous brocading technique. A sumptuous design with elaborate details, the Jangla saree imparts to the bride, a majestic demeanour like no other.

Brocade

Bridal Banarasi sarees are synonymous with brocades - medium to heavyweight fabrics ornamented with dense patterning all over the body. Embellished in silver or gold zari, or a combination of the two, brocade sarees, which exude a regal charm, are favoured by brides who flaunt the quintessential Banarasi look on their weddings. Among brocades, the Banarasi craft holds a special place for fabrics that render the background nearly invisible with decorative weft yarns - Khinkhwab. A distinguished drape of unmatched splendour, the Khinkhwab, as its name suggests, is the dream of every bride for her big day.

Minakari

Drawing inspiration from the eponymous coloured enamel jewellery, Minakari elevates the Banarasi saree with whimsical accents of colour that appear like rangolis strewn on a silken body. The technique embeds vibrant and jewel-toned silk threads, alongside zari yarns, into the base during weaving, finishing them in cutwork or the more tedious Kadwa style. When woven in Katan silk, the multicolour brilliance of Minakari, combined with the lustre of zari and sheen of pure silk, renders the saree indispensable to the Indian bride, especially for the main wedding ceremony or the reception.

Tanchoi

Tanchoi finds its place in the wedding trousseau as a design match made for brides who love the minimalistic style. Intricate in nature and yet unnoticeable at first sight, the self-designs on this weave arise from the use of supplementary yarns of similar shades as the body. Unlike zari designs, which stand out on a Banarasi saree even when folded, Tanchoi’s ethereal sheen becomes evident when draped. Ideal for celebratory occasions like Mehendi and Sangeet, Tanchoi sarees are also for those who take pride in wearing a handcrafted Banarasi, sans the extravagant zari work.

Rangkat

The hallmark of a classic Banarasi saree is a solid hue paired with lavish zari work on the body, borders, and pallu. The handweaving craft, however, also includes a fascinating, lesser-known design that transforms the saree’s body into a colour-blocked canvas through changes in the structural weft yarn - Rangkat. The varied colours, often in broad sections that run from one selvedge to the other, are widely seen in lighter Banarasi sarees like organzas and georgettes, making them a perfect choice for celebratory occasions associated with the Indian wedding, like Haldi and Engagement.

Kadiyal

Banarasi sarees are acclaimed for their rich zari borders in silver and gold and seldom have contrasting colours, except when the Kadiyal technique is employed. A noteworthy sub craft, Kadiyal presents to Banarasi the allure that Korvai imparts to Kanjivaram - striking borders in contrasting colours. While both techniques are performed on the handloom, Korvai uses an interlocking mechanism to attach a separately woven border to the body of the saree. Kadiyal, on the other hand, incorporates warp yarns of contrasting colours into the borders through careful considerations and calculations during the weaving process. Kadiyal sarees are for brides who love vivid hues and exuberant designs on their wedding drapes.

A blend of classic, contemporary, and fusion designs, Taneira’s curation of Banarasi wedding sarees has something special for every bride.