BHOOGOL – HANDLOOMS & HANDICRAFTS CELEBRATING INDIAN GEOGRAPHY
Bhoogol
Indian handlooms and handicrafts are soirees, celebrating cultural principles nationwide. Sarees, the vital element in defining the aesthetics of the Indian communities at large, have shaped the ethnic fashion quotient with authenticity and grace. The rhythmic fall of sarees, the quality-rich textures, and hand-crafted finesse; all are cherished globally in unison. TANEIRA, a TATA PRODUCT, has launched one of the most exquisite collections ‘Bhoogol’, a limited edition of 180 sarees, which is a creative re-imagination of some of India’s most gorgeous landscapes.
Portrayed through pronounced Indian handicrafts and handlooms, it involved many artisans recreating the natural beauty of such magnificent proportions. The range of sarees under the umbrella of ‘Bhoogol’, found its inspiration in the majestic topographies of mountains, valleys of flowers, rivers, fields, Himalayan forests, and evergreen forests. Three irresistible color palettes, inspired by nature, have versed the lyrical saga of cross-cultural values, reflected in the series.
Rivers of our motherland have levitated the virtue of India. Their natural hues, rhythms, and structural pieces laden with aquatic creatures, truly symbolize purity. Silver linings with the dash of sunshine and serenity, are the aplomb Himalayan mountain ranges hold. These natural elements are a pure source of inspiration for designers to create wonders in the world of Indian fashion. Henceforth, the first color palette sets the mood in shades of blues and cool greys, which reflect the regalities of rivers, and the serenity of mountainous trails.
The second one plays around with winsome shades of green, contemplating the scenic environment scrupulously. Nurturing the quintessence of forests, green fields, paddy landscapes, and the valley of flowers, the green palette speaks in volume about the essential richness, beautifying India across all zones.
The smell and texture of the soil are appeasing. One can dive deep into the vibe, with alluvial riverbeds, mountain terrains, and barren lands drenched with the innate beauty of seasonal transformations. Therefore, the third color palette tunes into the pitches of rusts and browns, in which the magnetism of soil is felt with the sarees.
ROMANCE of TUSSAR on BANARASIS
The series is an array of Banarasi sarees, woven out of tussar yarn. Here, you will discover inventiveness amidst the series of awesomeness, bedecked with Farad printing, zardozi work, and aari hand-embroidery. Desi-tussar has been used for enabling better fall and drape. Usage of antique gold-zari has been used to design the weave with Banarasi kadwa – buttas, which is underscored with stencil block printings.
Know the Craftsmanship Behind: The oldest inhabited city in the world, Varanasi, is an excellent paradigm of the Indian weaving artistry, which has its roots anchored in the rich cultural history of India. This was when the art of weaving Banarasi sarees began merging the Muslim and Hindu communities together. Based on the weaving techniques, Banarasis are categorically classified as Jangla, Kadhua, Brocade, Tanchoi, Kadiyal, Cutwork, Tissue and Meenakari. Five main types of fabrics such as Katan (pure silk), Kora (organza), Georgette, Tussar and Silk-Cotton create the wider space for classic Banarasis.
Farad or Pharad printing is a type of miniature block printing, which is practiced in the rural zones of Madhya Pradesh, and Bagru in Rajasthan. Chemical-free, vegetable dyes feed the liveliness of this centuries-old technique of hand block printing, which brings on the premium exclusivity with small motifs.
Originating from Persia, Zardozi is prevalent in our motherland as an elaborate metal embroidery on textiles. Antique zardozi work through needles and curved hooks have created the divine magic to be romanticized. Tuning to “Aari work”, the needle technique involved, uses the method of stitching the design with a long needle, which has a hook in the end. It is believed that the craft form originated from the ‘Mocha’ community.
SAGA of TUSSAR on JAMDANI WEAVES
The blend of tussar yarn on Jamdani weaves with the artistic dash of Kantha embroidery and hand-painting is bliss to adore. Abstract watercolor painting on the fabric tricked out in engineered compositions and ornate embroideries is a delight to touch, wear and feel. Multi-colored threads make the space for Kantha hand-embroidery more tempting in this series. Additionally, the design language itself represents the vast natural escapes with so much elegance and authenticity, that every purist will put the weaves on a pedestal.
Know the Craftsmanship Behind: Jamdani sarees stand head and shoulders above many other comparable forms of weaving in Bengal. It is a poetic weave, which has derived its name from two Persian words: ‘Jam’, meaning flower, and ‘Dani’, meaning a vase. It is a supplementary weft technique of weaving, in which the artistic motifs are produced by a non-structural weft, in addition to the standard weft that holds the warp threads together.
The standard weft creates a fine, sheer fabric while the supplementary one, with thicker threads, adds intricate patterns to it. Each supplementary weft motif is added separately by hand, by interlacing the weft threads into the warp with fine bamboo sticks, using individual spools of thread. The outcome is a myriad of vibrant patterns that appear to float on a shimmering surface. Today’s Jamdani weaving technique has off-shoots and is popular with different varieties such as Tangail, Dhakai, Dhaniakhali, Uppada, and Neelambari Jamdani.
Switching to the hand-embroidery quotient, Kantha needlework comprises a running, darning, satin, and loop stitch. It gives the saree an earthy feel, a wrinkled and wavy look, leading into an extraordinary creation. The indigenous simplicity of classical Kantha embroidery is often a personal expression of everyday experience, where folk motifs, flora and fauna, mythological themes, geometrical shapes, and scenes from daily life, narrate the stories.
CHRONICLE of TUSSAR on CHANDERIS
The last set of series under this fabulous collection comprise Chanderi sarees woven with tussar yarn. All the Chanderi weaves under this bracket have been woven with the Eknaliya technique, marking the lure of sustainable fibers. Hand-brushed textures are bedecked with naturally-dyed block printing, conjectured hand-painting, tasseling on the pallu, and multi-colored thread embroideries. Artisans and weavers from Maharashtra and Madhya Pradesh have breathed life into this series.
Know the Craftsmanship Behind: Chanderi’s rich sheer texture is often paired with intricate, antique zari work, making it grand and attaining the name “woven air”. These sarees were believed to be created in the Vedic Period by Shishupal, who was Lord Krishna’s cousin. It later became the saree of choice amongst Indian queens during the Mughal period. In the 1900s, the Scindia royal family began patronizing Chanderi sarees, thereby giving rise to the first cotton-muslin saree.
The weaves are now available in three types: pure silk, pure cotton and silk-cotton blend. Traditionally, motifs used in Chanderi weaving are gold coin buttas, lotuses, peacocks, geometric patterns, celestial figures, artistic intertwining lines, and figures of animals. The border varieties firstly include the “adda border”, which consists of a highly intricate design.
Secondly, they have the “nakshi border”, which has the outline made with a different colored thread. The third one is a plain “zari border”, called ‘patela’. In the present scenario of contemporized design intervention, varieties of creative developments have been ground-breaking for the master weavers at large.
Overall, ‘Bhoogol’ is an exceptional amalgamation of Indian handicrafts and handlooms, joining routes from east, west, north, south, and central India. To explore the brilliance of the limited edition, visit www.taneira.com and treasure the geographical bliss of each piece.
