Unveiling Bridal
Unveiling the Symbolism of Classic Motifs on Bridal Kanjivaram Sarees
16 November, 23
5 min read
16
Nov, 23
A handweaving craft that has stood the test of time for over 400 years, Kanjivaram - from the quaint temple town of Kanchipuram - is synonymous with opulence and grandeur. Woven in fine mulberry silk, dipped in bright colours, embellished with gold or silver zari, and decorated with intricate motifs and distinct patterns, Kanjivaram sarees top the list in the bride’s choice for the Muhurtham and make it the favourite spot for numerous other occasions surrounding the wedding. Kanjivaram’s appeal transcends generations, and the queen of silks reigns supreme even today owing to unique techniques like Adai and Korvai that lend it a distinguished appearance.
Drawing inspiration from flora, fauna, and mythology and rooted deeply in the culture of South India, the motifs that embellish the Kanjivaram saree serve as elements of decoration and symbolism. Among the myriad motifs intrinsic to Kanjivaram, a select few make it to the bridal drape, conveying a connotative meaning and upholding cultural significance.
Mayil - The Peacock
Among the many motifs that adorn the Kanjivaram weave, the Mayil is an evergreen favourite. Inspired by the ornate carvings on Kanchipuram temples, this motif symbolises immortality and wealth. Mayils feature on bridal Kanjivaram drapes as large buttas strewn on the body. In their miniature form, these birds embellish the borders and pallus in rows, often in conjunction with other beast motifs like elephants and horses.
Beyond its standalone configuration, the Mayil constitutes an important element of a hallmark Kanjivaram design - the Mayil Chakram, characterised by peacocks and serrated discs (inspired by Lord Vishnu’s Chakram) enclosed within broad checks of zari or coloured yarn. A unique and auspicious motif-duo, the Mayil Chakram also presents the bride an opportunity to flaunt her penchant and love for the heritage weave.
Kili - The Parrot
A bridal trousseau drawn from the Kanjivaram repertoire is incomplete without the Kili. In Indian mythology, the parrot often makes its appearance as a messenger between lovers. Adorning the body of the Kanjivaram saree as singular motifs or in pairs, Kili symbolically celebrates the union of two hearts. In the weave’s design vocabulary, the motif also holds significance as the bird perched on the right hand of Kanchi Kamakshi Devi - the revered deity of Kanchipuram, where these magnificent silk sarees take birth.
Rudraksham - The Prayer Beads
A bridal Kanjivaram saree is seldom complete without the Rudraksham, a motif inspired by the rosary beads attributed to Lord Shiva. Characterised by circles with V-shaped sections converging at the centre, Rudraksham often forms a prominent element of the Rettai Pettu, a grand, twin-border design seen commonly in wedding sarees. Other times, this motif settles inconspicuously into the borders and pallus, blending in with the larger design scheme comprising geometric elements, flowers, birds, and animals. The Rudraksham in a bridal Kanjivaram is more than a decorative element and holds symbolic significance. Weavers intentionally incorporate this motif into their designs, harnessing the power the prayer beads are believed to possess - protecting from evil, averting misfortunes, and blessing the wearer with peace in her journey ahead.
Iruthalaipakshi - The Two-Headed Bird
Kanjivaram’s design vocabulary is replete with mythological creatures. A rare motif of this kind that appears in wedding Kanjivaram sarees is the Iruthalaipakshi, also known as Gandaberunda. Featuring extensively in ancient temple carvings, royal mints, and emblems, Iruthalaipakshi symbolises victory and unmatched strength. The motif, rendered in impressive detail, captures the onlooker’s attention instantly and imparts majestic allure to the saree. Believed to be an incarnation of Lord Vishnu, the Gandaberunda is treated with reverence and hence finds its place of importance among Kanjivaram motifs for weddings.
Yaali - The Mythological Beast
A connoisseur's favourite, Yaali - a part-lion, part-elephant and part-horse beast of unmatched power - draws inspiration from South Indian temple architecture, where it guards entrances or holds up pillar structures. Illustrated in their prancing stance, Yaalis adorn Kanjivaram sarees as independent buttis and are sometimes enclosed within a grand circular design called the Thamboolam. An intricate motif that draws attention to the saree, Yaali serves a contrasting function symbolically. The beast’s presence on a bridal saree is believed to bring in a protective force, guarding the wearer against the evil eye, especially the glances cast on the big day.
Maanga - The Mango
The mango tree enjoys a place of unmatched importance in religious celebrations in Indian culture. Its leaves decorate home entrances on festive days, and the Purnakumbha or Kalasha presented on auspicious occasions. Its fruits make way to the Kanjivaram weave as a butti design on the body and borders and occasionally as a corner motif on the pallu. Interpreted as an adaptation of the Paisley, the Maanga in Kanjivaram is strikingly different in its form, which is rounder, fuller, and bearing a seed-like shape. The South Indian mango motif is believed to represent fertility and is, thus, incorporated into sarees crafted for the bride.
Yaanai - The Elephant
As grand, standalone buttis dispersed on the body or extensive procession-like rows that punctuate borders and pallu, the elephant motif adds substantial visual interest to the bridal saree’s canvas. Associated with Vinayagar, the elephant God who banishes all obstacles, and flanking Gajalakshmi, the Goddess of good fortunes, these gentle beasts also symbolise power, strength, and prosperity. The Yaanai makes an ideal choice as a bridal motif, mirroring the grandeur and adding zeal to the celebrations while also invoking blessings for a prosperous life ahead.
A reinvention of the heritage weave featuring classic motifs in unconventional layouts and contemporary hues, Taneira’s wedding Kanjivaram collection has something in store for every bride.